Bouillabaisse Marseille fish stew, three fish, rouille
The dish that built the restaurant. Three Mediterranean fish, saffron, fennel, rouille.
Maison Lou is a small West Village restaurant for the food of the Côte d'Azur — bouillabaisse on Fridays, pissaladière every night, and the tarte tatin Lou taught me to make.
Lou ran a small pension on the Promenade des Anglais in Nice from 1962 until 1998. Every Friday she made bouillabaisse, the way her mother had made it in Saint-Mandrier. I learned to cook standing on a stool in her kitchen, my chin level with the marble counter.
Maison Lou is the dishes Lou cooked at the pension — almost exactly as she made them. The wine list is different, the bread is mine, and there is one change to the bouillabaisse she would have allowed.
The dish that built the restaurant. Three Mediterranean fish, saffron, fennel, rouille.
Onions cooked for ninety minutes. Niçoise olives. Salt-cured anchovies. The taste of Nice in one bite.
Apples cooked in caramel for an hour. Puff pastry. Inverted at the table.
Céline Marchand runs the kitchen at Maison Lou. She trained at Le Cordon Bleu and then five years in Marseille — Le Petit Nice, Une Table au Sud, AM par Alexandre Mazzia — before bringing Lou's recipes to a former wine shop on Bedford Street.
A whole local daurade, baked in a hand-built salt crust. Broken at the table. With confit fennel and Lou's rouille.
Lou drank this every summer. Amélia pulled the last six bottles for tonight. Glass while it lasts.
"It tastes like the South of France — but only if the South of France were also your grandmother."
A second dining room behind the kitchen, with a single long table for thirty-two. Set menus from $145. Full buyout of the house — fifty-four seats — for $14,000 on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
For birthdays, anniversaries, small weddings, or quietly closing a deal.
Six of the questions our guests ask before they sit down.
Speak to usTuesday through Sunday, lunch and dinner. Same-week tables almost always available — sometimes the same day, if you call.